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  #11  
Old 04-04-2010, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GrumpyBobby View Post
Reminds me of this weekend's Kat 750 run where the speedo took a dump at 142 and it was all I could do to recall the RPM vs speedo rules and just kept it tucked under 11,500 in 6th on the way back from LA LOL!
I hate it when that happens!
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1959 Dorsett Farallon, 1965 Glass magic, 1960 Dorsett Catalina, 1964 Dolphin 16' CC, 1977 Pierce Arrow Tri-Hull, 1969 Power Cat center console
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2010, 02:03 PM
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On the subject of stators: mine had the same malady, so sent it to be rebuilt. Age had taken its toll on the insulation. Got it back today. Looks like a new one. I would predict that anyone with an older Merc probably has a similar problem. It may not show up until you are in the middle of the lake. I don't know if new ones are available, but there is a company in Alabama that does a great rebuild job. CDI Electronics, Inc. (256) 772-3829.
Address: 111 Commerce Circle, Madison, AL 35758.
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2010, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigfoot View Post
Im impressed with all your boating motivation lately. my merc has a green rotten wire comming out of the block too and I think thats why my tach maxes out to 6000 rpm when the ingition is engaged. I cant see any way to replace it but id like too.
Have you done any maitnence to that motor yeat??? Have you done a compression check??? Im just cerious because id love to learn how to work on motors and maintain them myself and repair them too.
I cant wait to see you float your boat.
Your wood work is fine and It looks like fresh paint, cool. way to go Phil....
Mike,
I'm sorry, but I somehow missed your post, or I would have replied sooner.
Read my next post about the tach maxing out.
As for a replacement stator, check out Oldmariner's post on this thread. They are very resonablly priced, if you can't find a good used replacement. DO get it changed. I was told that if arcing occurs between the stator leads, it can damage the ignition box ($$$$).
The first thing I always do with a "new" engine is a compression check. You can find a compression check gauge online or at an auto parts store. Remove the #1 spark plug and screw in the fitting from the gauge. Let it crank for 3 or 4 revs and check the reading and compare to what is called for in the manual. Repeat for the remaining cylinders. If anything is wrong in the cylinders, now is the time to find out! If everything there is good, then I check the igniton. Remove a spark plug and pop it into the spark plug wire boot. Lay the plug against the head, and crank it over. You should be able to see spark across the gap of the plug. Repeat for all cylinders. If all is well and you see no other visual problems, pump some fuel into it and fire it up. Remember to use a water hose hookup at ALL times! Several seconds without water while running can ruin an impeller. Once it's running, do the smaller stuff. Rebuild the carbs, fuel pumps and a new water pump impeller. If all goes well, You could get these things done on a weekend afternoon. Those items are cheap insurance. Like was said before, don't trust the judgement of the previous owner. Now with all of that done, I usually go to cleaning and checking for loose connections or corroded wire. With all of these items taken care of, your engine should last many troublefree years.

Phil
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Phil Abshier
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I'm down to 6 now

1959 Dorsett Farallon, 1965 Glass magic, 1960 Dorsett Catalina, 1964 Dolphin 16' CC, 1977 Pierce Arrow Tri-Hull, 1969 Power Cat center console
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2010, 03:24 PM
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Well, I tried to connect the old Airguide tach to the 1150 Merc today. I always got "all or nothing" to whatever I connected the leads to. If it registered anything at all, it was pegged! I'm waiting for a local outboard guru to call me back, but if anyone here has an idea, I open to suggestions.
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Phil Abshier
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I'm down to 6 now

1959 Dorsett Farallon, 1965 Glass magic, 1960 Dorsett Catalina, 1964 Dolphin 16' CC, 1977 Pierce Arrow Tri-Hull, 1969 Power Cat center console
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  #15  
Old 04-11-2010, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by abbyrocket View Post
Well, I tried to connect the old Airguide tach to the 1150 Merc today. I always got "all or nothing" to whatever I connected the leads to. If it registered anything at all, it was pegged! I'm waiting for a local outboard guru to call me back, but if anyone here has an idea, I open to suggestions.
May or may not help. Merc section for tachs from a 1969 Airguide catalog. Might verify the tach is the correct model number. No wiring diagrams, I'm afraid.
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  #16  
Old 04-11-2010, 05:25 PM
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If you aren't opposed to having a modern tach on your boat the answer is very simple. Buy a tach that reads off the impulses of the stator. Most newer universal tachs read the AC sinewave from the stator. No ignition module woes to deal with. I wouldn't mess with the old meter and your motor again, as you could blow the pulse pack $$.

Keep in mind that the older tachs were installed for specific engine and ignition types. Some of these had modules that converted the ignition impulses & sent these to the meter. Other types had the modules inside the case. Add to all that, the electronic parts (diodes, resistors, capacitors, transistors) inside the tach case or module can be damaged by previous hook up attempts, or by age degredation

If you do some looking around, there are some nice retro looking tachometers that are being manufactured - they would look at home on a classic boat and they read the impulses from a 12 pole alternator - which is what you have.
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Last edited by Motorhead; 04-11-2010 at 05:31 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-11-2010, 08:10 PM
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Bruce and Rod...
Thank You both! I was hoping to use the old tach from the donor boat to save $. But you're right, if I damage the ignition module, that will cost much more than a modern tach. The chart will come in helpful if I decide to use the Airguide with an older motor. It's looking like the more modern Thunderbolt ignition won't agree with the Airguide at all.
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Phil Abshier
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I'm down to 6 now

1959 Dorsett Farallon, 1965 Glass magic, 1960 Dorsett Catalina, 1964 Dolphin 16' CC, 1977 Pierce Arrow Tri-Hull, 1969 Power Cat center console
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2010, 09:27 PM
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Phil, heres what i found out for ya...

On the face of my Airguide tach(looks just like yours) at the very top of the face there is a marking P-6487...i can faintly make out your numbers but they look the same so that tach will work for your motor if its functional. On the back there is a 3GA stenciled on in yellow paint. 2 black wires which appear to be factory, are spliced into the wires coming out of the tach.

Those two black wires run to the plug on the front of the control box. There is a third brownish\tan wire which i cant trace where it goes but im assuming back to the motor. The male part of the plug looks like this: = | One of the black wires goes to the top horizontal male connector and the other black wire goes to the vertical.

As far as i can tell, this is all factory original to this boat. Dunno if it helps ya or not, but thats what i found!

Last edited by JerrfyLube; 04-11-2010 at 09:52 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2010, 09:50 PM
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Phil,
I have the Seloc manual that covers 1965 to 1990. V6 and L6. It has all sorts of diagrams and pictures for whatever application you have. I'm finding like Jeff mentioned its just like some of the newer OMC controllers where the wiring for tilt/trim, temp and tach come out the front of the controller thru a female plug, like mine. But of course the proper tach should be used for whatever your setup is. I still have trouble wrapping my brain around some of the electronics or electrical systems especially on the troublesome topic of tach's.

Good luck

You'll nail it eventually I'm sure of it.

Oh and how cool that there are guys, or gals, out there rewinding stators for these old motors.
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Last edited by Jill; 04-12-2010 at 02:50 AM. Reason: remove nonsense
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  #20  
Old 04-12-2010, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerrfyLube View Post
Phil, heres what i found out for ya...

On the face of my Airguide tach(looks just like yours) at the very top of the face there is a marking P-6487...i can faintly make out your numbers but they look the same so that tach will work for your motor if its functional. On the back there is a 3GA stenciled on in yellow paint. 2 black wires which appear to be factory, are spliced into the wires coming out of the tach.

Those two black wires run to the plug on the front of the control box. There is a third brownish\tan wire which i cant trace where it goes but im assuming back to the motor. The male part of the plug looks like this: = | One of the black wires goes to the top horizontal male connector and the other black wire goes to the vertical.

As far as i can tell, this is all factory original to this boat. Dunno if it helps ya or not, but thats what i found!
The P-6487 isn't the model number....just the ID number for face design I'm pretty sure. Model numbers on the Airguide compass face style were on the back in a sticker. Not real sure what the inked on numbers and letter signify. Some of the earlier Airguides did have model numbers on the face...653 and 654...but they required a sending unit for either magneto or battery/coil to work. A link to a chart someone else put together below. Might be of use to someone sometime. Again, no wiring diagrams there.

http://www.classicboatwork.com/class...on%20Guide.pdf
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